Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always shaped its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these tales and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
